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The Jewellery of African Gods: Paramentos in the Candomblés of São Paulo. E-book. Formato PDF Aymê Okasaki - Bruno Mondadori, 2021 -
In public Candomblé rites and practices, initiates use paramentos while dancing in a trance, which underlie divine archetypes and have been documented by several authors. While these studies are sources for producing paramentos, establishing aesthetic patterns, some changes are evident. In this context, this paper correlates the paramentos, different sets of jewellery and insignias used to represent the òrì?à, to the concept of fashion. In analysing the paramentos used from the second half of the 20th century until today by the Candomblés Kétu-Nagô in the city of São Paulo, I found variations in materials, shapes and prints. Such changes reflect: the decades in which these paramentos were used; who was the priest or priestess of these Candomblés; the technology of the materials in São Paulo; the exchange of information and imports from Africa; the economic context; and the development of an atelier. Using photographs, interviews and reference literature, I discuss two dichotomies: a) following a traditional style of paramentos or seeking more contemporary adaptations; and b) following the collective aesthetic standard established by Candomblé houses or aiming for an originality that is ewà, beautiful. From this search for renewal and the social language of clothing, I show how the jewellery that adorns African gods can also be influenced by fashion systems.
African A?o in Brazilian Candomblés. E-book. Formato PDF Aymê Okasaki - Bruno Mondadori, 2021 -
This article seeks to understand the connection between the afrobrazilian candomblé religion and its identity through the ritual gar- ments imported from African fabrics. Considering this, we will analyse the historical processes that brought the first African fabrics to Brazil since the eighteenth century, and of industrial fabrics' intense commercial route. The research was conducted by analysing these textiles from their handicraft methods, industrial beginnings, and trade route with Brazil, which intensified in the nineteenth century by the Afro-religious trade. The specific fabrics to be analysed are: A?o ? Oké, Wax Print and Adire. In addition to the bibliography, field research was carried out in candomblé temples and clothing markets. Photographs and field research demonstrate the presence of some of these fabrics in candomblé, especially in the post-1980s (re)-Africanization movement, bringing aesthetic elements from African cultures (mainly Yorùbá), instead of other fabrics. This presentation will help us understand why some striking fabrics in African cultures are neglected in candomblé, due to the historical process of this liturgical trade.